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Sensor sizes range from "Full Frame" (FX), which is roughly the same size as 35mm film, to "Four Thirds", which is about a quarter of the size. Partway between, the most popular DSLR sensor size is APS-C (DX).

CSC

Compact System Cameras were originally dubbed with the rather unfortunate acronym, "EVIL" - "Electronic Viewfinder Interchangeable Lens".

This type of camera offers some of the features of a DSLR in a more compact body. Typically, a CSC has either a "Four Thirds" or APS-C sized sensor, a live view rear screen, and a choice of dedicated or adapted, interchangeable lenses. Released in the third quarter of 2011, however, the tiny Pentax Q has a 1/2.3" sensor, and the Nikon "1" system has a new "CX" sized midway between the four thirds and 1/1.7" sensors.

SLT

"Single Lens Translucent". A DSLR - CSC hybrid.

This type of camera has an electronic viewfinder (EVF) and a rear live view screen. But rather than the contrast detection (or hybrid) of other live view systems, these cameras feature the full-time phase-detection auto focus used in DSLRs.

Super-Zoom (Bridge)

These cameras are basically compacts that prioritise a large range of lens "zooming", from wide angle, to 30 x telephoto and more!

Typically, Super-Zooms are built around 1/2.3 or similar sized sensors, and have a similar shape and appearance to a DSLR, albeit much lighter and smaller. They usually have a decent degree of manual control and feature both live view screens and electronic view finders.

These cameras, together with high-end compacts, are sometimes referred to as "Bridge Cameras"- a rather dated term, from the early days of digital, for cameras that were "bridging the gap" between DSLRs and Point 'n' Shoot compacts.

Compact

From simple "Point 'n' Shoot", to advanced "High-End" models - that latter offering RAW format and lots of control settings - these cameras are smaller than all of the above and can yield good to excellent quality images in a format that's convenient and easy to use.

Most have a live view screen, but no view finder. Some supplement the screen with an electronic viewfinder, while others feature an optical finder.

Typically, compacts have small sensors - 1/2.3" or the larger 1/1.7" and 2/3" in high-end examples. A minority have large, APS-C sized sensors, and feature a prime lens (no zooming), which enables them to remain compact despite the larger format. Announced in January 2012, the Canon G1X has a sensor with similar dimensions to four thirds sensors, and has a fixed 4 X zoom lens.

Sub-compact and Phone

Sub-compacts are generally tiny Point 'n' Shoot designs with a rear live view screen and few controls. They usually have the same 1/2.3" sensors as larger compacts, but have shorter ranged, more compact zoom lenses. Image quality from these cameras can still be very good.

Phone cameras generally have very small sensors, typically 1/8th". They are the most compromised in terms of handling, operation and image quality, but as a part of your phone, they are very convenient - the handiest "with you everywhere" camera.

Which is Best?

For different reasons, all of them!

?Pros & Cons ?Practicalities & Prioritising ?Image Quality ?Summing Up ?What Really Matters?

Pros and Cons:

DSLRs are often seen as the default choice amongst enthusiasts, but not always for the right reasons.

Good reasons to buy a DSLR:

Speed

The main reason to buy a DSLR is because you want to photograph things that move quickly:

• Sports and activity
• People - candid or events
• Children
• Wildlife - birds and animals

The optical system works as fast as light itself, so there's none of the latency (lag or delay) you get with live view screens. The focusing system offers fast and continuous operation too, and with speeds of 5 frames per second or more (whilst holding down the shutter in "continuous" shooting mode), DSLRs really are your best option for shooting anything that moves quickly, although SLTs, and some CSCs, are also worth consideration.

Further to this, unlike the screens of most live view cameras (LCD), the optical viewfinders work perfectly in bright sunshine and high contrast scenes.

Bokeh

Another good reason to use a DSLR is because the large sensor allows you to create bokeh in your images when using wider apertures. This, of course, also applies to some CSCs and other cameras with larger sensors.

Bokeh is the term for the out-of-focus area behind the subject; it can be used compositionally to subdue a distracting background, or emphasise a feature within its context.

The larger the format (sensor), the greater the potential range of available bokeh.

Bad reasons to buy a DSLR:

• So you can buy lots of lenses and carry them everywhere with you
• Because you think you'll get "professional quality" images
• Because you want to look like a serious photographer

If you want to photograph things that move quickly, or do studio portraiture, then a DSLR should be your primary consideration.

If you don't like the size and weight of a DSLR, and you don't intend to photograph things that move quickly, you don't need one. Good quality images can be taken with smaller cameras.

Live View

With cameras that have live view systems (rear screens or electronic viewfinders), what you see is fed from the sensor, so you can see how your photo will look before you take it, and adjust with exposure compensation as required. Some cameras have a live histogram which helps to optimise exposure too.

When using the optical viewing system of a DSLR, you don't see anything from the sensor until you've taken the photo. This means you have to review your image to check exposure / highlights.

Recent models do, however, have a live view LCD screen, so you've at least got some choice. But compared to compacts and CSCs, speed of operation can be compromised because of the mirror's reflex action and the phase detection focusing system. Some models have dual sensor systems which offer faster operation, but usually, lower resolution displays. Also, some implementations aren't as "live" as others: Some Nikons stop down to the set aperture upon entering live view mode but don't adjust with any further changes to aperture, whilst Canons don't adjust to the aperture setting unless you press the DOF preview button.

There are various implementations of live view, and you should carefully consider your priorities when purchasing a DSLR.

The hybrid single lens translucent (SLT) cameras from Sony have live view EVFs and rear screens, so what you see is what you get. They also have fast and continuous phase detection focusing. However, when considering such a camera, pay close attention to the response of the live view system to ensure it meets your requirements.

Screen versus viewfinder

Screens

Of course, the great thing about live view screens is that you don't have your face stuck to the back of your camera. I find that being able to see what you're framing-up in the context of the overall scene can help with composition.

Additionally, screens that tilt or articulate offer the advantage of being able to frame-up shots from all sorts of angles and positions that would be impossible using a viewfinder.

However, screens can be difficult to use in strong sunlight, and you'll need to try to shade them from direct sun and light reflected from your face or clothing. Some LCD screens perform better than others in this respect and adjust their brightness automatically; Samsung's AMOLED screens offer good bright weather performance too. Also worth noting is that some cameras brighten their screens momentarily as you half-depress the shutter to focus, and you could do this repeatedly to help compose a shot in bright weather if necessary.

Viewfinders

Whilst electronic viewfinders (EVF) don't need shading in strong sunlight, they do struggle with high contrast scenes. Optical viewfinders are unbeatable in this respect, as well as with their real-time speed.

Notably, the X100 from Fuji has a button switchable choice of EVF, or an optical viewfinder with electronic information overlay.

↑Pros & Cons   ↓Practicalities & Prioritising   ↑Image Quality   ↓Summing Up    ↓What Really Matters?

Practicalities and Prioritising

So, we know DSLRs are fast and versatile all-rounders, but they (and their lenses) are quite heavy and bulky. Your choice of lens(es) can compound this, because the best lab test performance often comes from lenses that are more purpose dedicated, so you can easily end up buying and carrying lots of different ones.

But for most of us, in real world photography, lab test performance doesn't really matter. Those lab test winners may be ever so slightly sharper in the corners, and have less vignetting at the widest aperture, but distracting detail in the corners of a photo is compositionally undesirable anyway, so why prioritise it? Those are the areas you're likely to "burn" in post precessing in order to detract the viewers' attention from them.

Pragmatism

If you can choose one or two lens(es) that cover(s) the focal lengths you really use, then you'll have more time to look for potential photos and be ready to take them - "gear obsession" can slow you down and impede your photography.

I prefer to seek out as many potential images as possible, so I prioritise wide angle to short telephoto - but I only shoot landscapes, abstracts and architecture.

I've found I work best with less gear.

From July 2010 till December 2011, I used a Samsung EX1; my wife now uses that. I now have a Sony NEX5N compact system camera with the 18-55mm zoom and 16mm pancake prime.

I prefer small, lightweight cameras.

Determination

Other people don't mind lugging lenses and other gear around; it rather depends on your approach, determination, priorities, and what you like to shoot:

If you shoot landscape, wildlife, people and sports, all on the same day out, then you're going need to carry a number of lenses, and perhaps other equipment too; either that, or apply a degree of compromise and pragmatism.

↑Pros & Cons   ↑Practicalities & Prioritising   ↓Image Quality   ↓Summing Up    ↓What Really Matters?

Image Quality

This seems to be an area where blind faith, habit and assumption often predetermine choice.

People often assume that all DSLRs deliver far better image quality than all smaller cameras, all of the time. In real world photography, this simply isn't the case.

Bigoted DSLR owners condescendingly refer to compacts as "point 'n shoot", even if they have more manual control than some DSLRs! Sure, you can push any camera beyond its best in review tests and compare it unfavourably, but it's important to think of what you actually photograph and under what conditions.

Knowing how to get the best results from any camera is often more important than which type you choose.

Technology

Sensors have improved in the past few years, and I'm not referring to how many pixels they have. They mostly make sharper and much cleaner images than the sensors of cameras made a few years ago.

I've noticed my EX1 (compact) can out-resolve my old D80 (DSLR) in some situations, for example (with both cameras at their base ISO).

DSLRs and CSCs now yield cleaner images and have a broader range of usable ISOs, and the better compacts can give excellent performance at their base ISO. In supplement, we now have image stabilisation systems, so we can hand hold at slower shutter speeds in low light, thus further reducing the incidence of higher ISO induced noise.

Number of Pixels

Beware of compact and super-zoom cameras with a very high number of pixels!

With small format cameras, after about 10 megapixels, adding more pixels can only yield more unwanted noise. You won't get any more detail because you start to exceed the maximum achievable resolution for the size of the sensor, which is generally accepted to be 4 pixels (1 Bayer array) within the Airy disk.

When looking at the pixel counts of new compact cameras, often for the best image quality, "less is more".

Image Stabilisation

Beware of compact and super-zoom cameras with "Electronic Image Stabilisation"!

Electronic image stabilisation is simply Auto ISO under a different name - marketing, and nothing more. When you allow a compact camera to raise ISO in low light, image quality will be reduced.

Proper image stabilisation is optical and compensates for camera movements by balancing them with counter movements. Your image will remain sharp at lower shutter speeds whilst image quality is retained.

Choose either "Lens Shift" or "Sensor Shift" Optical Image Stabilisation".

Sensor Size - DOF and Prints

Cameras with larger sensors have a greater range of usable ISO (sensor amplifying) than those with smaller sensors. But shutter speeds will be slower in the same light conditions, and you may need to use a stop or two higher ISO or use a tripod as a consequence.

As previously mentioned, there's a greater range of available bokeh from cameras with larger sensors; correspondingly, in practical terms, cameras with smaller sensors have greater depth of field (DOF) throughout their aperture range.

If you intend to make very large prints and closely scrutinise them, you'll get more detail from the latest cameras with larger sensors. However, I think it pays to consider the maximum print size that you're really ever going to make, and more to the point, whether you would put your head a few inches away from a 1 metre wide print to scrutinise details, or stand back to view the whole composition.

With prints of up to half a meter or so wide, it can be impossible to tell the difference between images taken with the better compacts and much larger format cameras - even under the closest scrutiny! But if you want a larger dynamic range and maximum detail in large prints, consider the latest cameras with larger sensors.

↑Pros & Cons   ↑Practicalities & Prioritising   ↑Image Quality   ↓Summing Up    ↓What Really Matters?

Summing Up

DSLRs are great all-rounders and, from that point of view, can be the best choice if you do all sorts of photography. They also have a vast range of lens options. But, if like me, you don't shoot things that move quickly, a DSLR may not be your ideal choice.

CSCs' popularity has increased rapidly since their inception in 2008, as has their development and consequential performance. With the obvious exception of the optical viewfinder, CSCs now offer DSLR comparable performance in terms of image quality, features, control, speed and, to a subjective degree, handling.

It seems poignant that the digital Olympus Pen takes its styling from the original half-frame rangefinder film camera. And, of course, digital SLRs are generally bigger and heavier than the film SLRs of the 1960s, which furthers the cause of such cameras.

If you want the image quality of a DSLR but don't want to carry the size and weight, then you may have found your ideal solution.

Super-Zooms, for some people, can be a few hundred grams of perfect pragmatism.

If you want to shoot everything from landscapes to wildlife without carrying lots of heavy gear, they can be ideal and inexpensive too.

Modern super-zooms have in-camera lens correction (as do compacts) to deal with the inevitable distortions and aberrations you get from a lens with such zoom range; this only applies to JPEG output, of course.

These cameras often offer a fair degree of user control (and can have good macro performance), but despite their appearance, they're not small DSLRs, and they don't have the same speed of operation for photographing things that move quickly. However, some models are reasonably fast, and you may consider their speed adequate for your needs.

Compacts are popular. Most holiday, party and family memorabilia snaps are made using simple, inexpensive and effective compact cameras. They usually offer good video performance too.

But now, a good high-end compact, such as a Samsung EX1, Panasonic LX5, Olympus XZ1, Fuji X10, or Canon S95/ S100 can also be a great solution for serious landscape and travel photography. These cameras have the larger compact sensors together with fast / bright (wide aperture) lenses that are optimised for landscape and general photography. They shoot RAW too.

Of course, those compacts with much larger sensors (Ricoh, Sigma and Canon G1X) will have the better low light noise performance and larger print potential of DSLRs and CSCs.

↑Pros & Cons ↑Practicalities & Prioritising ↑Image Quality ↑Summing Up ↓What Really Matters?

What Really Matters?

What really matters is choosing a camera that suits your priorities, and knowing how to use it at it's best.

Stating the obvious? Of course!

But some people believe that having more megapixels and marketed processing features will improve their photographs; others believe the best images can only come from using lots of heavy, cumbersome and expensive gear.

Manufacturers, retailers and magazines are all trying to sell you cameras and equipment. Their priorities aren't photography itself.

Prioritise

You need to think of the type of photography that is actually important to you and prioritise:

• Don't carry a camera and a range of lenses (or other bulky and heavy equipment) that you're hardly ever going to use. Doing so can slow you down and you may miss photo opportunities.
• Don't buy a small camera that offers more magnification (zoom) than you're actually going to use. Doing so can compromise image quality, particularly on low light conditions.

Optimise

Once you've chosen a suitable camera, go through the menus and set it up for maximum performance:

You want the largest, best quality JPEG, or RAW.

Keep ISOs low (especially for small sensor cameras). Auto ISO sounds good in theory, but it often increases the sensitivity before necessary and degrades the image quality as a result, especially with image stabilisation which allows slower shutter speeds to be used successfully; test it, and if it cuts in too soon, ignore auto ISO and set it manually.

In general, use the sharper apertures (F5.6 to 11 for DSLRs and CSCs; F2.8 to 4 on compacts), preview or review images and apply EV compensation where required.

I'll be writing a comprehensive article on camera settings soon.

Familiarise

Familiarise yourself with your camera so that, once set-up, you have fast access to settings you wish to change.

Settings you may want to change regularly include the following:

• EV - Exposure Compensation
• Exposure lock (AEL), or a selectable auto-focus point. Either of these will allow you to optimise depth of field by focusing at the hyperfocal distance whilst maintaining the correct exposure for the composition.
• ISO - If setting manually, leave this at the base (usually lowest) number, and only raise it to get adequate shutter speed when hand holding in low light.

Practice!

When you've done all this, get out there, look, visualise, compose, set focus, optimise exposure (review on DSLRs), and take the photo.

Keep doing this, and your photos will improve with dedicated experience.

It's about photography, not cameras.

↑Pros & Cons ↑Practicalities & Prioritising ↑Image Quality ↑Summing Up ↑What Really Matters?

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